Features from the Guardian
newspaper are listed below but
pieces in the Observer Food Monthly 'Word of Mouth' blog are updated
daily and best
viewed through their
own index.
Lamb club
Some men like to get together in their homes to watch sport on the
television, some gather at a pub for a drink or maybe a quiz. Others
enjoy poker or literary discussion in a book group, but for me and a
small group of neighbours it's dismembering a sheep. Welcome to Lamb
Club.
Who needs pubs?
I've been entirely unable to find anyone with a good word to say about
home brew and yet there is something very tempting in the idea. It is,
after all, only a simple cooking process. I'm not expecting to produce
something that will compete with a Californian microbrewery or a
burgundian chateau, I just want a drink that will compare to the stuff
coming out of the pumps and bottles at my local pub..
The old ones are
always the best
However you characterise our national relationship with food you can't
deny that we like to read about it. Cookery books by celebrity chefs,
tied-in to television programmes and often ghost-written, have been a
constant fixture in the UK bestseller lists for many years now.
Though food publishing has never been in sleeker health, this
is not necessarily good news for lovers of cook books. The latest
celebrity offering might make an admirable gift for that hard-to-please
relative but it's rarely the kind of thing you want to curl up in a
corner with, and it seems publishers may be taking notice.
A Spaniard in the
works
His
restaurant, El Bulli, has been named best in the world - for
the fourth time. He's led the revolution that has demolished the
culinary supremacy of France and become an icon to creative chefs
around the world.
An exclusive interview with Ferran Adrià.
What's in your
fridge?
Twenty years ago we didn’t think
about fridges much. They were small, cupboard-like, and fitted under
the kitchen counter. They smelled a bit. They had a ‘freezer
compartment’ - usually a solid berg of frost in which was set a broken
ice-tray and an escaped oven chip - and they made that reassuring
‘thunkety humm’ noise at odd times throughout the night....
In search of the
'God Shot'
I bought my first espresso machine in the 1990s. It was a La Pavoni
Europiccola, a small, retro-looking chrome job with a big lever you
yanked down to express the coffee. It looked great on the counter in a
Patrick Bateman sort of way but
it made vile coffee, was a bugger to clean and constantly threatened to
explode in a shower of steam and shrapnel. When, one glorious day, it
blew a gasket, I seized the opportunity to upgrade...
The
future's orange
Twelve
kilos doesn't sound too much. A dozen jars maybe. It all seems
manageable - until I load the damn things on to the kitchen table. I
phone Fi Kirkpatrick, author of Debrett's New Guide to Easy
Entertaining, who is to marmalade, what Howard Marks is to marijuana.
"I'll be right over," she says.
Ready,
steady, eat
Do you remember how it used to feel leaving a good restaurant? The
endorphin-induced glow of wellbeing, tightness about the waistband, the
pleasing alcoholic buzz and a feeling of rightness with the world. That
seems to be happening less and less these days. It's far more common to
find ourselves back out on the pavement, 90 minutes after arrival,
chillingly sober, wondering what to do next.
Bringing home
the bacon
Washed clean of the cure and patted dry with a towel, the bacon looks
like something in an 18th-century still life. The fat is creamy, the
lean centre dark and lustrous. Bacon is unique among meats in its power
to move the soul. Even sworn vegetarians can be swayed by bacon ... if
they say they can't they're lying.
Things to do
with
soggy veg
We've inherited the idea that stew is cheap, nourishing and virtuous.
We start with an outsized cauldron, a load of cheap meat and veg and
keep adding ingredients until it looks right. Nothing beats that Little
House on the Prairie feeling that you've made enough food to feed
everyone on the homestead through a cruel winter - nothing except the
realisation that there are only two of you, in a suburban semi and that
you'd probably rather eat the dog than another bowl of stew.
A barbie world
Perhaps it is the importance of the social ritual that keeps us
barbecuing. I'm all for events that bring families and friends together
for shared meals, although, try as I might, I can't think of any
civilised culture where a public performance of making dreadful food
taste worse would be regarded as hospitable.
A cut above
I've studied drawings purporting to explain the cuts of meat, but I've
never understood them. I imagine they are about as much use in trying
to find your way around a carcass as one of those ceramic phrenology
heads would be to a brain surgeon. However, watching the side
transformed into neat piles of recognisable cuts suddenly made
everything drop into place.
"We can fit you
in - after 10pm"
It's hell trying to book a table, chefs and waiters hate serving up
lovey-dovey food and restaurateurs see it as an easy way to rake in the
cash - no wonder Valentine's is the worst night of the year to dine
out.
Are you a gourmet snob?
You delight in dining off-menu. Your knives are worth more
than your car. 10 tell-tale signs that you love food a little too much.



